Nursery 1

Rory's Rug Rats

Welcome To

Rory to Dakota

Rory and Dakota's Little Rug Rats have arrived on May 31, 2010. Three babies one solid black female, one liver & white female and one gold black masked boy arrived just before 9 am. by c-section! Nevada & Texas appear at this time to be staying fairly small and we are estimating that they will be Tiny Types and not make breed standard of 9 pounds.

NEVADA

6 weeks old

Dark chocolate liver & white parti female birth weight 5.2 oz.

Est. adult weight is 7.5 pounds

$1,250.00 pet/companion

AVAILABLE

TEXAS

6 weeks old

Solid gold black masked male birth weight 5.2 oz.

Est. adult weight is 6.5 pounds

$1,150.00 pet/companion

AVAILABLE

MONTANA

6 weeks old

Solid black female birth weight 6.4 oz.

Est. adult weight is 10 pounds

$1,250.00 pet/companion

By Gail & Michael Marcocchio of Fort McMurray, AB.

Send me an e-mail if you are interested in Adopting one of Rory & Dakota's Babies!

got2ba_shihtzu@hotmail.com

1. Montana - ADOPTED

2. Nevada

3. Texas

Puppy Development Calendar For Rory's Rug Rats

Puppy Development Calendar
Date:	Mon 31 May 2010
Puppy/Litter:	States
Sire:	Dakota
Dam:	Rory
Breeder:	Debbie Wiebe
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Make sure the puppies get warm and dry as soon as possible after they are born. When they are still wet their temperature can drop rapidly. Put them under a ceramic lamp (if the bitch will let you take her puppies away, if she is hesitant, put the 'ready box' in the whelping box with her so that she can see her babies.), or use a heated pad or a hotwater bottle filled with warm water (covered with a towel). Warm a chilled puppy gradually! Don't feed a chilled puppy until he/she is fully warmed up! If a chilled puppy feels dehydrated a little glucose water can be given. When the bitch has finished giving birth, return the puppies to her (after cleaning up). It's very important that the puppies receive the bitch's first milk. This first milk, colostrum, contains antibodies to all the diseases the bitch has encountered in her life and also those she has been vaccinated against. This will help to protect the puppies against infections. The ability of the puppy to absorb these antibodies will cease after 24-48 hours. Determine the sex of the puppies. Male puppies have a 'button' just below their umbilical cord stump, female puppies have a 'button' much further down and between their hind legs. Check the puppies for any defects. Look in their mouths to check the roof of their mouth for any abnormality. If you have any concerns you should consult your vet. You should weigh the puppies every day - or at least during the first two weeks. A healthy pup will increase its body weight by 5-10% per day. Therefore, weighing pups is very important. Failure to gain weight may be the first sign of disease or fading puppy syndrome. They should have doubled their weight at the end of the first week.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	The first 36 hours of your puppy's life are the most critical for its survival. Puppies are born in a very immature state. Their body temperature is low and they can only keep up their body heat by lying against something warm, either the bitch or a heat pad. Newborn puppies are never still, they twitch and jerk and stretch. This reflex action is called activated sleep. A pup which lies completely still is likely to be in trouble, as is the pup that is constantly crying. The umbilicus should be carefully inspected for evidence of inflammation or infection. Try not to disturb the bitch and her puppies too much, but do check every two hours or so to see if everything is OK - especially if it's the bitch's first litter. Keep a close eye on the bitch. If she appears to have a temperature take her to your vet. Make sure the bitch is eating and drinking well. Dedicated new mothers may neglect their own needs. Try and feed the bitch in the whelping box with her puppies, you may even need to coax her a bit. Ensure the bitch has a high protein diet and that the quantity is increased accordingly. Feeding and looking after puppies is hard work and the bitch will need an increased ration of high protein, high calorie food. The ration size will need to increase as the puppies get older and their milk consumption increases. Give the bitch ample opportunities to go outside to relieve herself - she may be reluctant to leave her babies.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	Puppies have instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, & they nurse. New-born puppies are unable to urinate or defecate by themselves. The bitch will stimulate them to do so by licking their rear end and tummies. Some bitches are not as contentious as others, it is a good idea to check that she is performing this task adequately. Without this stimulation a puppy will die. You can mimic this action by dampening a cotton wool ball with some warm water and rubbing the puppy's urinary opening ('button') with a gentle back and forth motion. To encourage them to defecate, rub in a circular motion under the base of the tail. Keep going until you get results, sometimes this process can take a few minutes. If the puppies are to be 'docked' and their dew claws removed, this should be done between days 3 & 4. It is illegal for a lay person to perform this procedure, please consult your vet. If your vet is not able to assist you, the 'Council For Docked Breeds' (URL: http://www.cdb.org/) should be able to provide you with information on vets who can help.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Some puppies loose a bit of weight during their first day, and possibly don't gain weight on their second day but will catch up during their third day and fill out rapidly after that. In so long as the puppies appear well in all other respects, don't worry. If however you feel there is cause for concern, you could 'top' the babies up with a bottle for a couple of days (this is in addition to them feeding from the bitch). A healthy new-born puppy is either sleeping or sucking. He should feel plump, warm, round and firm and will make low 'contented' murmuring noises. If a puppy appears to be apathetic or cries constantly, something is wrong (consult your vet)! Abnormal pups are limp to pick up, have a damp, wrinkled, cold skin, purplish tummies and feet, and may utter a persistent, plaintive (seagull-type) cry, or may be silent and chilled. If the bitch can't handle the feeding of her puppies, you might want to take care of two or three feedings each day. Feed the puppies a commercial artificial bitch's milk (like WHELPI or Lactol). Use a syringe and 'drip' the milk into the puppy or a baby bottle with a soft teat - check the size of the flow, the milk should drip from the teat at a drop per second. If it is too fast the puppy will choke. Don't overfeed the puppies (when it is full, bubbles come out around its mouth). Don't forget burp the puppy and give to the bitch to be cleaned.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	Umbilical cord drops off.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppies eyes will start to open. Their sight is still very blurred and they won't be able to see clearly for some time to come. Make sure the eyes are clean, look for any signs of pus. Teeth begin to erupt. Trim the puppies nails with some small scissors. Puppy's nails can be very sharp and will scratch the bitch's teats. Trim their nails every week.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	The ear canals begin to open.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppies will tolerate changes in temperature better now. However they still need to be kept at an even temperature and away from draughts. Now is the time to worm the puppies. Puppies should be wormed at 2 + weeks of age and then fortnightly until 12 weeks of age. Consult your vet for a suitable product
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	Now is the time to introduce the puppies to solid food. Take the bitch out of the whelping box when you feed the puppies (otherwise she will eat their food!). Offer the puppies a small mouthful of scraped beef (steak scraped with the back of a spoon so that a fine meat paste is produced). An alternative would be some previously soaked puppy kibble or commercial 'puppy porridge'. Put the food directly into the puppies mouth and let him/her suck it. Puppies soon get the 'taste' for non milk foods! Feed a couple of times per day for a few days. Once they have got into a routine of having solid food, offer them four very small meals per day. At this stage the bitch will still provide their main nourishment. The puppies will now begin to bark, wag their tails, bit, paw and growl!. The puppies should now be up on their feet (they are quite wobbly!) and will start to explore their surroundings a bit. They can now urinate and defecate without the help of the bitch. The puppies need to be handled frequently and be introduced to other people, sights and sounds (within the household!) Ensure that visitors do not expose the puppies to germs. (Here at Powerscourt we use an germicidal/virucidal (VIRKON)impregnated mat for visitors to walk on, surgical rub for their hands and a large clean towel to separate puppy from the visitors clothing!)
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Ear canals should have completely opened by now. The puppies should be out of the whelping box now and into a playpen in the kitchen (or somewhere equally suitable). Here they will be able to toddle about and play with some freedom. They will also be subjected to household comings and goings which will be good for them during their socialisation phase Weaning can begin in earnest now. Take the bitch away from her puppies and offer them four small meals a day. The puppies' first attempts at eating will be messy! They will climb in the bowl, spill food everywhere and generally not eat very much! Once they lose interest in the bowl let the bitch back in to them. She will clean up any spilt food!
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Worm the puppies again!. At this stage it is also appropriate to worm the bitch with a suitable product.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppies should be completely weaned now. They should receive all their nourishment from food rather than from their mother. However it is permissible to allow the bitch to give the puppies the occasional feed should she so desire. Don't leave food down permanently, this is un hygienic Make sure you offer the puppies water to drink. As they move over to solid food and rely less on the bitch they will need water to replace the fluid they had in the form of milk. Ensure the water container is not deep or a puppy could fall in and drown Once the puppies are on solid food the bitch will no longer clean them. Usually the puppies will move into a corner of their box to urinate and defecate.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Worm the puppies again!.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	The babies should be fully weaned and eating four good sized meals a day. Stick to regular mealtimes. The puppies will now be very active and will be playing for a few hours a day. They will be very rough with each other and there will be lots of ear tugging! The bitch's job is now almost complete. You should gradually start to integrate the bitch back into the family and away from her babies. She must of course have access to them, but don't force her to be with them if she doesn't want to.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	At this stage (subject to the weather!) babies can play outside in the garden. Do check to ensure the garden is 'puppy proof' i.e. no gaps in fencing and hedges etc. Also check for plants that are harmful if eaten!
undefined NaN undefined NaN	Worm the puppies again! If the puppy is going to a new home now is the time to say goodbye. Depending on the type of vaccine your vet uses, puppies can receive their first vaccination against the common canine infectious diseases now.
undefined NaN undefined NaN - undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppy should be happily settled in his/her new home now. He/She should be eating four good meals a day.
undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppy can receive the second vaccination against the common canine disease now. (The first if he/she has not started the Primary Course of Vaccinations). Worm the puppy again!
undefined NaN undefined NaN	The puppies are twelve weeks old now, they should be fully vaccinated and ready to go outside for their first walks and to puppy training classes etc.. Worm the puppy again!

Raising Puppies Timeline

Week One (Days 1-7) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ 90% of time spent sleeping

+ 10% eating

+ Susceptible to heat/cold

+ Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse

+ They can right themselves if placed upside down

+ Needs stimulation for urination/defecation

+ Rapid development of central nervous system

+ Need constant care from bitch

+ Rectal temperatures 94-97 degrees Farenheit

+ Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again

+ Weight should double by end of week CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Chart weight daily (2 x daily first 2 days)

+ Examine puppies daily

+ Trim nails weekly

+ Keep whelping box around 85 degrees Farenheit (this means if it's hotter than that out, put a fan in the room or turn on the air conditioning, if it's colder than that get a heat lamp to put above the whelping box)

+ When you handle the puppies, it's a good idea use a towel when you hold them. The puppies urinate upon stimulation and will inevitably find your attention stimulating!

+ If your breed requires tail, ear, or dew claw docking, schedule this with your vet. CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Keep dam on fluids for first 24 hours (i.e.. chicken broth, etc.)

+ Feed three full meals a day after that

+ Supplement with 250 mg Vitamin C twice daily

+ If puppies are fussy, supplement bitch with Vitamin B complex

+ Check mammary glands twice daily (looking for signs of mastitis -- swelling, hardness, pus, etc.)

+ Keep an eye on vaginal discharge (looking for signs of infection)

+ Make sure bitch eats, drinks, and relieves herself TO DO LIST

+ Keep detailed records on puppies' weight and behavior

+ Keep charting bitch's temperature

+ Call puppy buyers with results of whelping

Week Two (Days 8-14) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Eyes should open around days 8-10

+ Ears should open around days 13-17

+ Temperatures should be around 97-99F CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Keep whelping box around 80-83F

+ Begin holding puppies in different ways (applying light stress)

+ Trim nails weekly CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Bitch should get three times her normal amount of food TO DO LIST

+ Continue as above Week

Three (Days 15-21) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Teeth begin to erupt

+ Puppies stand up and start walking

+ Begin to lap liquids

+ Defecate/urinate without stimulation

+ Start becoming aware of environment

+ Start playing with littermates

+ Develop sense of smell

+ Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Start adding stimuli (toys) to puppies' life

+ Start giving specific stresses when handling (i.e.. pinch an ear or toe gently).

+ Start giving pups milk replacer to lap for one meal a day -- after two days, add some very mushy food

+ Weigh puppies every 2 days

+ Give puppies a dirty shirt of yours to play with

+ Start weekly grooming sessions (brush, trim nails, look at teeth, etc.) CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Continue as above TO DO LIST

+ Purchase milk replacer to feed puppies

Week Four (Days 22-28) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Begin to eat food

+ Begin to bark, wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and chase

+ Use legs well

+ Tire easily

+ Depth perception starts CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Keep mom with them a lot! Things can get overwhelming at this age and Mom will add stability for them

+ Each pup needs individual attention

+ Offer food that is the consistency of cooked oatmeal CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Continue as above TO DO LIST

+ Start limiting bitch's access to pups before offering them food

Week Five (Days 29-35) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Group activities and sexual play will begin

+ Dominance order starts

+ Rapid growth/development CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Reduce fluids in puppies' food

+ Make sure other people start coming to see pups

+ Begin weaning

+ Play radio at normal volume near pups for 5 minutes at a time CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Start reducing amount of food to discourage milk development

+ Keep a careful eye on mammary glands TO DO LIST

+ Discuss vaccination schedule with veterinarian

Week Six (Days 26-42) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Growth and development continue CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Offer soft, damp food

+ Chart weekly weight

+ Individual attention crucial -- give each puppy time with you away from litter CARE OF THE BITCH

+ To prepare bitch for weaning: Day 1 -- no food Day 2 -- 1/4 normal maintenance meal Day 3 -- 1/2 normal maintenance meal Day 4 -- 3/4 normal maintenance meal Day 5 -- full amount of normal maintenance meal

+ Keep bitch on puppy food for several weeks to help her recover from the strain of breeding, whelping, and raising puppies

+ Keep careful eye on mammary glands TO DO LIST

+ Continue as above

Week Seven (Days 43-49) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Total hearing/visual capacity

+ Will investigate anything

+ Can't respond yet to name CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Pups should be weaned and on regular puppy food

+ Pups can go to new homes CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Keep careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up

TO DO LIST

Week Eight (Days 50-56) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ First fear period

+ Starts learning name CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Don't ship puppies

+ Can start training puppies in small steps CARE OF THE BITCH

+ Continue as above TO DO LIST

+ Continue as above

Week Nine (Days 57-63) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Develops strong dominant and subordinate behavior among littermates

+ Begins to learn right behavior

+ Motor skills improve

+ Short attention span

+ Starts focusing attention on owner rather than other puppies

+ Separate littermates

+ Start house training CARE OF THE PUPPIES

+ Continue lots of individual attention

Week Ten (Days 64-70) DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Safe to ship puppies by air For more information on puppy development and raising, see Your New Puppy FAQ.

A peek inside our Puppy Packs

These are the items that you can expect to take home with your new puppy. Each gift bag contains:

- Sample of food your puppy is on

- gallon of our water

- tooth brush

- hair brush

- shampoo

- toys (ball, frisbee, stuffies, rope bones & teething toys)

- treats

- rawhide bones & sticks

- milk bones

- bandana

- first hair clips

- place mat

- 2 stainless steel bowls

- water bottle attachement

- hot water bottle

- alarm clock

- collar & leash

- nail grinder

- food scoop

- plaque/picture frame

- hand sanatizer

- ear wipes

- paw towel

- blanket

- folder for all your new puppies records

- health record

- puppy sales contract your guarantee in writing

- brouchures, magazines & information

- duotang with Shih Tzu care & information (bred, history, eye, ear, nails, teeth, shots, play, house training, ect.)

- microchipped

- pedigree

- CKC registration papers to follow

- 6 weeks free pet insurance covering:

$750 to cover veterinary fees for illnesses and accidents
Your coverage begins after only 48 hours (from the date and time you take your puppy home) and continues for 6 weeks. We pay for 80% of fees at any veterinary practice. You are responsible for the first $50 per condition (the deductible).

$150 for advertising and reward
If your puppy is lost or stolen, call us and we will help.

$250 death benefit
In this unfortunate event we will share in your final costs.

A total of $1,150 worth of coverage.

- I also usually try to include a gift or two for the new owners as well as a token of my appreciation for you choosing me as your new puppies breeder!

* Please note that Puppy packages may vary slightly depending on availablity of some items. Puppy packs are also only available to those that pick up their puppy. If a puppy needs to be shipped and I put all that stuff in the crate then there would be no room for your puppy!

You can expect almost everything that you need to get you started with your new puppy will be include. It is my goal to give you and your new puppy the very best possible start so that all you need to do is take your new baby home with your gift bag and enjoy your newest family member knowing that all you need is inside the bag.

Potty training is well on the way and with some babies complete by the time you take your new puppy home. We use the potty park to get this process started for you. Crate training and seperation is also started so that your new puppy won't keep you up all night for the first few nights with you.

Pedigree for Dakota & Rory Babies

*Sire* *Deb's Dark Knight Of Dakota* BLK	Sire Sweet & Sassy's Cream Bellagio LVR	Sire Sweet N Sassy's Starbuck LVR	Sire Koko Kola LVR
			Dam Lor Ells Charmin WHT
		Dam Sweet & Sassy's Choc. YooHoo LVR	Sire Southwyck's Blackjack Flash BLK
			Dam Loli Pop BLK & WHT
	Dam Meyer's Once In A Blueberry Moon GLD, BLK MSK.	Sire Raven's Blue Streak BLU	Sire Smoken Blueberry Blues BLU
			Dam Barbi's Champagne Ice SLV, BLK MSK
		Dam Wee-Wa's Abby There In A Minute GLD & WHT, BLK MRKING	*Sire* Ch. Sharwin Ahead Of The Rest GLD & WHT
			Dam Wee-Wa's Rubys Rubik Cube LVR & WHT
*Dam* Wallflowers' License To Wed LVR & WHT	Sire Chang Jiang's Kiwi N Creme LVR & WHT	*Sire Fast Man Jack LVR & WHT*	Sire Puppiesinabox Bow Tie Man LVR & WHT
			Dam MTN Valley's Horrid Tori LVR & WHT
		Dam Carmel 4 Me GLD, BLK MSK	Sire Cash And Carry
			Dam A Shih Tzu Delight Cujo
	Dam Texas Grown Lily Of The Valley (USA) WHT	Sire Louise's Colby GLD & WHT	Sire Cc's Mister Big Stuff
			Dam Paumels Chase N Shelly West
		Dam Misty's Specail Valentine RD & WHT	Sire Third Charm Samson
			Dam Sadie Sanchez

This pedigree page was built for free at SitStay.com

Babies In Nursery 1 & 2

Welcome To Deb's Tzu Hobby Breeder of CKC Canadian Kennel Club Shih Tzu Puppies

Canadian Breeder Shih Tzu Puppies CKC Registered Stud Service

Rory's Rug Rats

Puppy Development Calendar For Rory's Rug Rats

A peek inside our Puppy Packs

Pedigree for Dakota & Rory Babies

Babies In Nursery 1 & 2